It’s time for fashion, tonight. Time for the fresh batch of ArtEZ- Institute of the Arts- Fashion Design graduates to shine and present their collection on the catwalk. The list of succesful alumni of this fashion department (celebrating it’s 60th anniversary this year!) is long (Lidewij Edelkoort, Viktor&Rolf, Iris van Herpen, Jan Taminiau to name just a few) so it just might be that in this class of young designers there are a couple of rough diamonds that will make their mark in fashion forever.
21 Grams by Mark Sturkenboom
Is one of the designs from Sturkenbooms graduation collection Small Gestures, Big Expectations. It’s a urn and a shrine in-one, a delicate (and in some ways not so delicate) way to pay homage to a special loved one that has passed away. Beside storing the ashes of the deceased 21 Grams (named after the so called weight of the immortal human soul) is also a docking station on which you can hook up your ipod to listen to the favorite tunes you shared. You can save his or her perfume and wedding band here, and be intimate again by using the..uhm…phallus shaped object which has a container in which you can put some of the ashes of your loved one. After reminiscing you can lock up these dear memories and hold the key close to your heart.
Design Highlights; ArtEZ finals 2012 part 2
Since a few years the number of graduation projects that focuses on fashion accessories has grown at the ArtEZ finals. I’m not sure what has stimulated this shift, but it is an interesting development. With Fashion Design graduates always having to pare on accessories and shoes in their final collection. It’s only a matter of time that those two disciplines will crossover and be combined into a sublime complementary graduation project. In the mean time feast your eyes on the accessories of Frank Verkade’s Zoomorf collection and Steven Visser’s graduation project ‘A Gentleman’s Thing’.
Merging man and animal
I can’t wait to see in what (fashion) magazine even music video Frank Verkade’s collection Zoomorf will turn up, since it’s so very photogenic. His interpretation of the signet ring gave me goose bumps. An appropriate reaction to his work as I found about, because the human body is Verkade’s canvas on which he designs, builds and shapes his accessories. Inspired by the animal body and body language Zoomorf is a reinterpretation of a series of traditional accessories such as the signet ring, the backpack, suspenders and the collar, that merges human and animal aspects together. Take for instance the collar that is based on the hard, folded parts of a rhino skin. When wearing it, it alters the shape, the silhouette of the one wearing it. Another favorite of mine is the signet ring disguised as a tassel that pops open revealing the colors of a bird’s feathers. The collection is a reaction to nowadays use of animal parts. Skin, fur and bone are not only worn ON the body, but with animal donor organs and injectables they have found their way INTO the human body as well. And this alters the shapes of the human body. I say a collection that is right up Lady Gaga’s Born-This-Way alley.
Since we’re namedropping Steven Visser’s collection ‘A Gentlemen’s Thing’ would suit the likes of actor Ryan Gosling, who’s a reflection of today’s fashionable young men. Men that echo the style, defined by functional but stylish and beautiful crafted accessories, of gentlemen who once were. For these dandies 2.0 Visser has designed a series of iconic accessories reflecting his down to earth, but sturdy design signature and men’s will to build and achieve. The pipe, pocket watch, glasses and suspenders all show the construction that at the same time is the flair of the product.
One more blog post to go in what has turned into a small series of posts on the Design Hightlights of the ArtEZ finals 2012. That one will feature, amongst two others, the work of a true storyteller. Want to see what you missed out on with part 1? Go check it out here!
(Studio photograpy Zoomorf by Juuke Schoorl)
Design Highlights; ArtEZ finals 2012 part 1
The Institute of the Arts in Arnhem, ArtEZ, has a renowned Fashion Design department that has brought forth well-known alumni such as designers Viktor & Rolf, Iris van Herpen, trend forecaster Lidewij Edelkoort and many more. So the annual graduation show is always one to look forward to, this year was no exception as i wrote in an earlier blogpost. But, the Product Design department is not to be ruled out, especially not this year’s class of graduates. I would like to share my favorite designs arranged by contrast and similarities.
While the projects of his classmates where slightly cramped up in the exhibition inside, two of Thor ter Kulve's projects came to full effect outside of the Rietveld building, in public space. A lamppost was converted into a landmark by an attached big, blue airbag and a trashcan was given a new social function by adding a fireplace insert. Two designs that very much reflect Ter Kulve's vision on reshaping and redefining public space.
Mick van der Pluim also made quite a statement with his ‘Showoff’ collection of big, chunky, porcelain chandeliers, lights and showpieces. The designs demanded full attention. But whereas Ter Kulve’s work ethic is: to add to what already exists in times of economic hardship and individual isolation. Van der Pluim embraces class, luxury and wealth. So he translated the richness of classic porcelain to modern times, combined it with more than a hint of the cockiness and vibrant colors of Memphis Design and turned it into his Showoff collection.
Graduate Vera Meijwaard also roots for a revival of splendor with her ‘Renaissance of Abundance’, no doubt about that. Just a glace at her shoes showed that practicality and wearability weren’t top priorities, but creating objects of inspiration was.
Wether created for inspiration, an ideal or for telling a story i noticed that all prototypes of the designs were well executed. These a just a few of the projects that caught my eye, there’s more to come in part 2 of Design Highlights; ArtEZ finals 2012. To be continued!
Fashion Future is the face forward title of this year’s Graduation Show of the bachelor Fashion Design at ArtEZ. The fashion department of this Institute of the Arts in Arnhem has educated famous alumni such as designers Viktor & Rolf, Lucas Ossendrijver (Lanvin), Iris van Herpen, fashion illustrator Piet Paris, trend forecaster Lidewij Edlkoort and many more. So the show is always well visited by the industry, press and the wider public to face the future of fashion, spot the talents and label the public’s favorites.
Nineteen collections came down the runway and the overall feeling is that collections were very much complete, and telling a story. It’s was all very understandable; easy on the eyes colors and shapes, less conceptual than previous years. Or I am more adapted to the show than i think i am. Let’s start with men’s collections since there are always just a few. The two that stood out for me were Anne Kluyternaar’s Lux Is Crossing and Luuk Varkevisser’s Exit Through The Gift Shop. They couldn’t have been more different from one another.
Anne Kluyternaar - Lux Is crossing
Kluytenaar dressed her male models in very feminine designs. Wearing Chanel-like jackets accessorised with pearls, clutches and casually smoking cigarets. Varkevisser made more of a statement with his presentation; styling, choise of music (hip hop) the strong pace in which the models walked the catwalk. It complemented the alternative, biker-rock outfits.
Luuk Varkevisser - Exit Through The Gift Shop
Two collections that complemented each other were Arche-re-type by Yoram Tomasowa and Hemisphere by Eefje Wijnings. Both very graphic and in black & white, but the latter had more dramatic pieces.
Eefje Wijnings - Hemisphere
Tomoasowa’s work had a more lightness to it despite of some strict, layer folded designs.
Yoram Tomasowa - Arche-re-type
Bold color use in several collections, neon is still very popular, also in Jody de Lange’s collection Anthurium. But she combined it with sleek designs and organic, floral prints.
Jody de Lange - Anthurium
Another breath of fresh was Mood Masaic by Julian Stips. A blow up of iconic Mexican features without turning into costumes.
Julian Stips - Mood Masaic
Dark but sophisticated was Niels Tol’s collection Spring Awakenings. Not an optimistic dash of color in sight as you would expect considering the title, but it didn’t needed it.
Niels Tol - Spring Awakenings
Only time will tell if this class of 2012 will make name for itself in the future. A few of the graduates are off to a good start. Anne Kluytenaar and Julian Stips together with Peet Dullaert and Melanie Bomans have been nominated on behalf of ArtEZ for the Frans Molenaar Couture Award 2012. Classmates Jef Montes and Esther Kruyer have been selected as the two ArtEZ graduates to compete against the other selected graduates of the six other art institutes of the Netherlands for the Lichting 2012 Award. During the upcoming Amsterdam Fashion Week the winners will be chosen and announced.
(Photography by Team Peter Stigter except Jody de Lange - Anthurium and Niels Tol - Spring Awakenings.)
This years theme of Collectie Arnhem Product encourages you to accept, even embrace the bad weather the world seems to be stuck in. You never know where it might bring you, so it’s better to re-channel energy in turning a bad situation into something more…enjoyable. Say goodbye to perfection and welcome a childlike simplicity, relight that proactive fire within you and shine because of your uniqueness. It’s an optimistic message underlined by upbeat colors in playful designs. I’ve made a selection of my favorite ones, almost everything, but the one that really stands out for me is the Rain Cape. An item that normally only has to tic the ‘functional’ box, not so for the design students. Why would you want to disappear in a black, blue, green or red tent-like gown, in an already blurred world due to lashing rain? They have turned that scenario into a happy, more fashionable moment, by designing a tailored, baby blue with yellow piping rain cape. Wearing that just might make me enjoy bad weather.
Preview Collectie Arnhem 2012
Collectie Arnhem is a project in which the third-year students Fashion Design of ArtEZ (Institute of the Arts in Arnhem, Holland) as a class have to design, produce, present and sell a theme based, cohesive fashion collection. Collectie Arnhem 2012 will be presented to the press on January 25th, during the Amsterdam Fashion Week. After which a ready to wear collection will follow for points of sale such as Arnhem Coming Soon. Collectie Arnhem was set up in 1999 by fashion designer and alumnus Alexander van Slobbe. Since 2009 their is also a Collectie Arnhem Product in which the third-year students Product Design have to create a collection. Check my review on that 2011 edition here.
(Photograpy: Arash Fakhim)
A short film made by Freudenthal/Verhagen to present Generation 12, this year’s graduates of the Fashion Design Masters at ArtEZ. If you’re familiar with the work of this photographer/stylist duo, you’ll immediately recognize their quality to create depth by layering. It’s like walking into their photo’s or in this case their film. Check out the lookbook of the collections made by Generation 12. It’s well forth a glance after watching the video.
“The mind is its own place, and in itself can make a heav’n of hell, a hell of heav’n.”
On May 22 the exhibition Lost in Paradise will open in gallery Espace Enny. This group exhibition features the work of newly ArtEZ (Institute of the Arts) graduates Mirka Farabegoli, Tina Hinderink and Surya Wit, along with paintings, drawings and objects of four already established names: Anya Janssen, Rinke Nijburg, Gerda Ten Thije and Eun Young Lee. The artists were asked to select work, some even made new work especially for the exhibition, that shows their vision and thoughts on how paradise could or should look like, not the banishment of paradise. Several of them referred to the poem Paradise Lost written in the 17th century by the English poet John Milton. This epic poem is about the great creation myth and the Old Testament. Some were drawn by nature and found inspiration there. If you want to see what the end result is, Paradise Lost can be visited till July 31.
Collectie Arnhem Product. We invite Nature
Collectie Arnhem Product is a project carried out by the third-year students Product Design of ArtEZ (Institute of the Arts in Arnhem, Holland) in which they, as a class, have to design, prdoduce, present and sell a theme based, cohesive collection of products. Collectie Arnhem was originally set up in 1999 for the Fashion Design students by fashion designer and alumnus Alexander van Slobbe. But after the annual success ten years in row, it finally got introduced in the Product Design discipline as well (hence the addition of Product in the title).
Every year the students decide on the theme and this year it’s We invite Nature, redefining the meaning of garden and living outside. The collection represents the inventive and creative forces of nature and the desire of the student-designers to take place within those processes. They have playfully interacted with nature by seducing and leading her. It was their intention to start a dialogue, not to force a monologue upon nature. And in my opinion they have succeeded rather well. Here are a few of my favorite designs. The complete Collectie Arnhem Product is for sale at Fashion & Design store Arnhem Coming Soon.